Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

Surfing through life


Forty-five minutes after starting, Paul finally pulled the wet suit over his shoulder. It was comical to watch. Everyone was surprised that no one had ever made a video and put it on the Internet. But Paul was just such a nice guy that no one wanted to tell him he looked silly.

It was the same thing every day. Paul retired a few years ago and needed a hobby. At first things started pretty innocently, he would drive to the beach drink his coffee and watch the sunrise. But he was mesmerized by these people walking on the water. He fell in love with surfing.

However, surfing did not fall in love with Paul.

When Paul and his wife were vacationing in Hawaii a decade ago, he took a surf lesson. Both he and his wife were mildly amused, but the lesson did not take. He went home thinking surfing was something he could cross off his bucket list. It wasn’t until he retired and watched the surfing every day that something in his psyche clicked and he had to do this thing.

Paul did what any sensible person would do, go out and buy a surf board, surf racks, rash guards, wet suit, surf wax, zinka, and anything else the guy in the surf store could convince Paul he needed for his surfing adventure. That was all it took. Paul was a regular. However, though he claimed to be an avid surfer. His time on the water looked much different.

Every day Paul struggled to get into and out of his suit. Sometimes he got the suit on and never bothered to get in the water. But putting it on changed his demeanor and he felt like he had such purpose. On the days he did get in the water, he would splash and paddle around. Sometimes he accidently caught some white water, but most days he just flailed around.

But here is the thing. He was happier than any other surfer out there.



One comment on “Surfing through life

  1. Pingback: Author Interview – Gordon C. Stewart – “Be Still!: Departure from Collective Madness” (Poetic Theological Essays on Politics, Pop Culture, Economy and Much More) | toofulltowrite (I've started so I'll finish)

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This entry was posted on April 23, 2017 by in story, surf, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , .
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