Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

Surfing through recovery


I timed my knee surgery perfectly. While I was sitting at home with nothing but time on my hands it coincided with a whole lot of surfing. Vans Triple Crown, Peahi, and the Target Maui Pro. When you have nothing to do but sit at home, why not watch streaming video of surfing. Okay- this might not be for everyone but it is my thing.


It was a special moment in surfing, it was the first paddle in contest at Peahi and Carissa Moore was crowned the world champion, her third title.


But for me it was my way of keeping my sanity.


Though I prefer to be in the ocean, watching the waves and watching great surfing was the closest I was going to get to a stoke.


For now, I will just count the days and minutes until I can start to walk and aggressively rehab. And I will keep dreaming of the ocean.



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This entry was posted on December 13, 2015 by in Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , .
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