Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

The edge of the ocean


As the days passed, we were all a little on edge. While the ocean was welcoming, she was aloof. As we became more restless, the ocean became more still. She was so still it looked as if we could grab our skateboards and roll across.


A surfer without surf is similar to a mermaid out of water. Both can survive for a period of time, but eventually you must get back in the water.


Finding other water activities can appease the need for surf, temporarily.


Just when we were giving up hope of seeing a wave again, the ocean provided. They weren’t idyllic in size but what they lacked in size they made up for in shape and rideability.


This little swell should be enough to cut the edginess for a little while. It’s back to looking at reports on web sites in hope for the next bump.


Thank you mother nature- we needed that!



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This entry was posted on September 7, 2015 by in surf and tagged , , , , , , , , .
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