Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

Get back on that wave

IMG_5648

When you get knocked in the face the best thing to do is stand up and get right out there.

 

The other day I got smacked in the face with my board. Not only was it a physical wound it was mental also. I knew that if I waited too long to get back out in the water I would have a big battle on my hands.

 

So the next swell, which was a few days after the knock to my noggin, I paddled out again.

 

Just as I suspected I had a mental battle. I nearly turned around before getting past the break because I was afraid I would lose control of my board and get hit in the head again. I ignored those thoughts and kept pushing past the waves. Once I got to the line up I found I was afraid to paddle for waves. Set after set of great waves came right to me because I was sitting in the peak but I just let them pass because I was terrified that I might get hurt again.

 

In the end I ended up getting two nice rides. That was enough to get me back on the horse and to overcome some of my mental hurdles.

DSCN3434

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: