Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

Get back on that wave


When you get knocked in the face the best thing to do is stand up and get right out there.


The other day I got smacked in the face with my board. Not only was it a physical wound it was mental also. I knew that if I waited too long to get back out in the water I would have a big battle on my hands.


So the next swell, which was a few days after the knock to my noggin, I paddled out again.


Just as I suspected I had a mental battle. I nearly turned around before getting past the break because I was afraid I would lose control of my board and get hit in the head again. I ignored those thoughts and kept pushing past the waves. Once I got to the line up I found I was afraid to paddle for waves. Set after set of great waves came right to me because I was sitting in the peak but I just let them pass because I was terrified that I might get hurt again.


In the end I ended up getting two nice rides. That was enough to get me back on the horse and to overcome some of my mental hurdles.



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