Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.
Of all the sports I’ve done surfing is by far the toughest. It took years of going out in the water and getting pounded before I began to feel like an actual surfer and not just a kook in the line up. But that’s with a long board.
About a year ago I picked up a short board (well it’s short to me). And learning to ride a short board is like learning to surf all over again. When I go out it looks like a comedy of errors. I resemble a physical comedian like Rowan Atkinson. There are things like doing splits while catching a wave and riding on my knees before falling over. I am sure that if you were watching from shore it would be a good laugh.
I guess I have a ways to go until I look like an actual surfer on a short board. I guess until then I’ll just be a kook, but I’m okay with that.