Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

Just dropping in


There was a time in my life when I had no concept of getting dropped in on or dropping in on someone. It was a time when I was solely focused on catching a wave. Okay, I was focused mostly on not getting pounded by the waves but my goal was just to catch a wave.


A few years have passed and now I get what it means to drop in on someone or to get dropped in on. And it can be really annoying, especially when you are cruising down a wave and have to maneuver to avoid a collision.


The other day I was out surfing and it happened, this guy dropped in on me. I turned, avoided the collision, and then I was left with a choice to get pissed and annoyed or not.


The easy reaction is get angry.


The guy was just learning. That was me a long time ago when I was learning to surf. Catching a wave and actually riding it was his only focus.


So yeah I could get pissed but what good would that have done? There are plenty of waves out there and getting mad would probably just mess up my day.



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This entry was posted on August 3, 2014 by in living, sport, surf and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , .
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