Swell Time

Moving forward, just not sure where we're going, but at least we're having a swell time when we do it.

My addictions

As much as I am an addict to running, I rival that with my addiction to riding waves.

Ever since I was young I played sports. For the most part (and my mother may challenge this) I felt I did pretty well in them. My success kept me playing. Through high school I played volleyball, basketball, soccer, and softball.

Surfing was my big break through in doing something that I was really, really bad at. Up until the day I tried surfing most sports came fairly easily. This was not true when I got out in the water with a surfboard. I absolutely sucked at it. And what surprises me is that no matter how much I got beat up on the water, I loved it almost instantly.

I guess love comes in many forms. For me this was such a challenge. It required the physical of getting out in the water and paddling past crashing waves. It required the mental challenge of being okay with looking like a clown in front of everyone in the lineup. And surfing takes guts because you are in one of the most powerful forces in nature, water.

For me running and surfing are very similar. They both require mental toughness. You have to focus on the task at hand. Both allow me to clear my head. And both are HARD.

So no matter how many times I wipe out, I will always paddle out for another set. And no matter how many hills I encounter, I will always take one more step towards the top.

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This entry was posted on May 31, 2012 by in athlete, Running, sports, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , .
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